Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances (PFAS)
*Originally published October 2022, updated October 2024.
What are PFAS?
Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (referred to as PFAS) are a group of nearly 15,000 chemicals used in the manufacture of water-repellant food packaging, fabrics, cosmetics, cookware, polishes, paint, wax, cleaning products, firefighting foam, microwave popcorn bags, floss, and even menstrual underwear. They are frequently referred to as “forever chemicals” because they persist in the environment for an unknown amount of time and accumulate in our bodies. Due to their widespread use and persistence, PFAS have made their way into drinking water. Consumer Reports tested drinking water in 120 locations and detected PFAS in 117 of the 120 locations. In 2021, a peer reviewed investigation of 32 types of PFAS in bottled water revealed PFAS were present in 39 of the 101 products tested. In addition, PFAS were found in 1400 communities in 49 states according to research by the PFAS Project at Northeastern University in Boston and the Environmental Working Group (EWG).
Examples of specific types of PFAS include polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) or teflon, GenX, octafluoropentyl methacrylate (OFPMA), GenX, perfluorononyl dimethicone, perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane and many others. In some cases, you will see these PFAS on ingredient labels but in other cases it is unclear. Because of this, it is important to avoid products with water resistant claims when you can. In cosmetics certain raw ingredients may be treated with fluorinated compounds (precursors to PFAS), and therefore might not be shown on the ingredient label.
Harmful Effects of PFAS Exposure
PFAS are toxic to the cardiovascular system and linked to adverse health effects such as increased cholesterol, immune system effects, cancer, thyroid hormone disruption, and effects on infant birth weights. Animal studies indicate PFAS causes liver toxicity, disruption of immune and endocrine systems, neurobehavioral effects, neonatal toxicity and death, and tumors in multiple organ systems. PFAS exposure is associated with abnormal ovarian function, but more studies are needed to confirm this.
PFAS in Cosmetics
Dermal Absorption
A significant exposure route is the absorption of PFAS in products applied to our skin. A study in 2024 showed that dermal absorption of PFAS is significant. PFAS in cosmetics are a big concern that needs to be addressed even though the focus has been primarily on exposure through food and water.
Detecting PFAS in Cosmetics
In cosmetics, PFAs are added to make them long-lasting and water resistant. Measuring PFAS in products is difficult because there are so many varieties. The best method is to look for the presence of a PFAS precursor called fluorine. Fluorine testing methods can detect the presence of any kind of PFAS. In a 2021 study, 231 US and Canadian cosmetics products were screened for fluorine and “high fluorine levels were found in products commonly advertised as “wear-resistant” to water and oils or “long-lasting.” Foundations, mascaras, and lip products had the highest proportion of products with fluorine. Two other studies, one in Europe and one in Asia, also found PFAS in cosmetic and personal care products.
Here are some of the PFAS commonly found in beauty products to look out for:
OFPMA (Living Proof hair products)
Pentafluoropropane (makeup)
Methyl perfluorobutyl ether (skincare)
PTFE (skincare and makeup)
C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate (skincare and makeup)
Perfluorononyl dimethicone (makeup)
Perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane (makeup)
Perfluorodecalin (skincare)
Perfluorohexane (skincare and makeup)
Remember that some cosmetic ingredients can be treated with fluorinated compounds but they are not alwasy listed on the ingredient label, so it’s best to avoid all cosmetics with water resistant claims.
Other Products with PFAS
Nonstick Cookware
PFAS are used to make nonstick coating for cookware. Different types of PFAS used in nonstick cookware include perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and GenX. In the US, PFOA was phased out by 2015, but PTFE and GenX are still allowed. Some cookware is labeled as “PFOA free”, but it still may contain other harmful PFAS.
Menstrual Underwear
In 2020, Jessian Choy sent menstrual underwear to Professor Graham Peaslee, a nuclear physicist at Notre Dame University who discovered PFAS in food wrappers. Dr. Peaslee found high levels of PFAS in the crotch of Thinx underwear and offered to test more of their products, but Thinx declined. By 2021, a class action lawsuit was filed against Thinx. Leah Segedie of Mamavation tested 19 period underwear products for fluorine (a precursor to PFAS), and 5% of the products tested had detectable levels of fluorine present. Read Mamavation’s article to find out which period products contained fluorine and which products did not.
PFAS Legislation
In August 2022, the EPA proposed designating perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and perfluorooctanesulfonic acid (PFOS) as hazardous substances under the Comprehensive Environmental Response, Compensation, and Liability Act (CERCLA). This would increase transparency and accountability regarding PFAS and those that use it. The EPA issued health advisories for GenX and perfluorobutanesulfonic acid, which are replacements for PFOA and PFOS, but the advisories are nonregulatory and noneforceable.
Some states have enacted legislation limiting PFAS in drinking water, fire fighting foam, packaging, and consumer products. States are also allocating funds for the remediation of PFAS in drinking water and contaminated sites.
Avoiding PFAS
Here are three simple ways to reduce your exposure to PFAS:
Filter your drinking water (reverse osmosis is preferred)
Avoid water resistant cosmetics
Do not use non-stick cookware
