Dec 6

Dec 6 Ingredients to Avoid in Cosmetics

Clean marketing labels like “Clean at Sephora,” “Target Clean,” and “Clean At Ulta Beauty,” seem to be popping up everywhere. The labels make us feel like the products we are buying are safe.

The truth is, “clean” is not scientific or foolproof, and there is a lot of gray area. Products labeled clean often include harmful ingredients. There is greenwashing infused in the marketing of brands.

What really matters lies in the fine print on the back of the box: the ingredients.

Included here are ingredients commonly found in cosmetic products, even those marketed as “clean” plus why you should avoid them.

Fragrance

Because fragrance is considered a “trade secret, you do not know what chemicals are inside and whether or not they are considered safe. Fragrance is actually mix of fragrance and chemicals which are associated with allergies, dermatitis, respiratory distress and potential effects on the reproductive system. [1][2][3][4]

Studies have revealed toxic ingredients in fragrance such as phthalates, octoxynols, and butylphenol methylpropianol. Phthalates are associated with developmental and reproductive toxicity, endocrine disruption, and cancer. [5] Octoxynols and nonoxynols are ethoxylated ingredients and can leave behind 1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide which are associated with reproductive, developmental, and endocrine effects, cancer, and DNA damage. [6] Butylphenyl methylpropional is a skin and eye irritant and potentially an endocrine disruptor. [7]

Additionally, fragrances emit harmful volatile organic compounds and fragrance is one the 5 common allergens found in cosmetics.

Continuing reading about fragrance in this blog post.

Lake Dyes

Colorants labeled as “lake” dyes and those preceded by “FD&C” or “D&C” are petroleum or coal-tar derived colorants that are regulated in the US. Because of this, they have the same problems associated with any petroleum-based product: the main one being contamination of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which are carcinogenic.[8][9] Petroleum products are one of the main sources of PAHs in cosmetics.

Safer colorants available include minerals like iron oxides, titanium dioxide, and ultramarines.

Phenoxyethanol

Phenoxyethanol is preservative that is controversial in the clean beauty world. It can be a skin, eye, or lung irritant. Most importantly, in 2008 the FDA warned consumers not to use Mommy’s Bliss Nipple cream because it contained phenoxyethanol which was harmful to infants. The statement indicated phenoxyethanol could “depress the central nervous system and may cause vomiting and diarrhea, which can lead to dehydration in infants.” [10]

There are brands and stores like Follain that have decided against selling products with phenoxyethanol due to the evidence of potential dangers associated with it. Especially since there are great alternatives to phenoxyethanol available, it is better to avoid it.

Polyethylene Glycols (PEGs)

PEGs are widely used in cosmetics as surfactants, emulsifiers, cleansing agents, humectants, and skin conditioners. They are also used to help retain moisture and enhance penetration of ingredients. The concern of PEGs lies in the impurities 1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide. which are carcinogenic and associated with reproductive, developmental, and endocrine effects, and DNA damage.[11][12]

Parabens

Parabens are routinely used as antimicrobial preservatives in everyday products from cosmetics, skincare, and household products to pharmaceuticals and food and beverage processing. But personal care products (including cosmetics) are one of the largest contributors to our exposure of parabens.

A Study from the University of California Berkeley found an earlier onset of puberty in girls associated with higher paraben levels. Parabens are immune and skin toxicants, they mimic estrogen and disrupt the endocrine system, are toxic to the developmental and reproductive systems, interfere with gene expression, and are associated with cancer.[13][14][15]

There are safer and more natural preservatives systems available that are used by many clean brands in place of parabens.

Continue reading about parabens in this blog post.

Talc

Talc should be avoided because of the potential contamination of asbestiform fibers. Asbestiform fibers are known carcinogens and studies have linked them to mesothelioma. Additionally, there is no safe level of exposure to asbestos.[16][17]

Guidelines state that talc used in the US should be free from asbestos but In October 2019, the FDA detected asbestos in a sample of Johnson & Johnson’s baby powder.[18] Thousands of lawsuits have been filed concerning a link between ovarian cancer and talc powder.

Talc is used not only in powder but other everyday products such as deodorant, eyeshadow, and soap. To avoid potential exposure of harmful asbestos, avoid cosmetics containing talc.

Chemical Sunscreens

Cosmetics like BB creams and foundations that have SPF often contain chemical UV filters because they go on clear and are cheaper. While some clean brands avoid the chemical uv filter oxybenzone, they still use other harmful chemical sunscreens such as octinoxate, homosalate, avobenzone, and octocrylene. Chemical filters generate free radicals, cause skin allergies and mimic hormones, impacting the endocrine system.[19][20][21]

In May 2019, the Journal of the American Medical Association published results from a study confirming the absorption of active sunscreen ingredients in the skin. Additionally, the FDA has stated only two ingredients are determined to be safe and effective: titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. [22][23]

If a product has SPF, the only active ingredient be zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.